Too tight sleeves

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Too tight sleeves

Postby Rosieq » April 17th, 2017, 12:24 pm

I made Ava a dress for Easter, it is a lined sleeve as well. The sleeve turned out to tight in the width. In construction, I did all the staggering and trimming of armhole seams, and did sew the sleeve seam as narrow as I dared..

With my strange brain, I cannot get it to wraparound how to alter the pattern to give her even a quarter inch more room. The sleeve is not restricting, but would just be more comfortable with a little give. It seems it is a tiny size 8 for a size 16 gal!! And Piper's sleeves turned out almost too roomy. She is built like a willow!

Any suggestions? Would the alteration be made at the shoulder seam and add the same width to the sleeve. If I did that would I just slant the seam from neckline to the armhole seam, keeping the neckline the same?

Thank you for any help. Linda
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Re: Too tight sleeves

Postby niener » April 17th, 2017, 1:10 pm

Linda, my blonde roots almost always win when it comes to alterations. However, on sleeves it seems to me that a larger seam would produce roomier sleeves if you are referring to the sleeve cap/armhole. My grandmother always referred to that as "hollowing out the armsceye. You would be getting larger the more "into" the garment you set the sleeve. I hope that makes sense. So when it comes to altering, if you "hollowed out the armsceye 1/4", trimming it out that much, you would get 1/2" more room. And I would think that would also involve adjusting the sleeve cap by that much unless there was a whole lot of fullness at the top of the sleeve. Some times I have trouble setting in a sleeve smoothly when there is too much built in ease. I hate nothing worse than when a set in sleeve that should be smoothly set in has those pesky gathers that show up.

If instead you need width at the bottom of the sleeve, I think you would draw a line from the shoulder straight down to the bottom of the sleeve and slash it, spreading out the sleeve enough to get the extra width at the bottom you need.

But the best bet is to wait for Bunny or somebody else who is an expert on pattern alterations to chime in!!
Jerry

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Re: Too tight sleeves

Postby Rosieq » April 17th, 2017, 2:41 pm

Jerry, you might be onto something. I am more interested in the sleeve around the arm not the armsyce...but, it would not hurt for that armsyce to be a tad bit larger as well. If I hollow out the armscye ... my shoulder would be too narrow....but I could slash the pattern all the way down and add 1/4 inch...that would save adding to the waist line so much. And, thus the waist would be more fitted and flattering. And also adding some to the width of the sleeve would give me room there. This width is parrellel to the sleeve seams (around the arm)

Bunny, I know you will have a better and more accurate solution for me for me.

This is the problem with young teens, parts of their body do not measure per industry standards.

Ava was very happy with her dress...her daddy liked both dresses, and so did all their senior friends at church.didnt hear from Mommy or the other grandma an opinion at all :roll: Our senior member of the church, was sitting down at the table before the early morning one and said that one (Piper) looks just right for church this morning, they look like what they wore in Bible times. They were the narrow straps that wind up around the ankles and strap.

Thank you all agin for any thoughts you can offer...
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Re: Too tight sleeves

Postby jsm » April 18th, 2017, 7:12 am

Linda, I think you might be able to "slash and spread" the pattern.

Slash the sleeve pattern vertically, but stopping before you reach the seam allowance at the top. Then, gently spread the pattern. It is sometimes better to slash it in 2-3 places, rather than right up the middle. You should be able to increase the circumference of the sleeve, without altering the sleeve cap and armscye too much. It might alter the armhole seam slightly. You may be able to ease it more, while stitching, or slightly trim the armscye seam, before pinning and stitching the sleeve.

Google slash and spread pattern alterations, and you often will find where they have done this to sleeves.

I am definitely not an expert in altering or drafting patterns. But, that is what I might try, using scraps, interfacing or inexpensive material and making a sample or muslin first.

Jan M.
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Re: Too tight sleeves

Postby Bunbun5 » June 19th, 2017, 5:47 am

I do slash and spread like Jan. I have to alter all my sleeves now for flagging arms :roll: . I slash from hem to sleeve cap right down the middle of the sleeve, leaving the seam allowance and hem in tact. The I slash from about one inch under the armscye from left to right making sure it is 45 degrees to the grain slash down the middle, again keeping seam allowances. This gives you a big cross. Now push this apart. Parts will overlap and a space will form. Back that space with paper or interfacing and secure with ironing or taping. It will look a bit odd. If you need a half inch more width open it up that much in the center of the slash. I open mine usually an inch and a half. How does one's arms get so much larger when the weight is pretty much the same? :roll: At least it didn't all got to my arse.

Things will look a bit wrinkly and odd. Just smooth it out and add the paper or whatever to the new empty space. Now you can cut your pattern!
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Re: Too tight sleeves

Postby Rosieq » June 19th, 2017, 6:30 am

Thank you all for the comments and help....this page is now hanging in my sewing room for future reference!

Linda
Life is a garden, Good friends are the flowers,
And times spent together, Life's happiest hours.....

http://pinterest.com/intherosegarden/
http://www.linda-thisnthatintherosegarden.blogspot.com/
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